Ludovico di Varthema

An Italian traveller, diarist and aristocrat known for being the first non-Muslim European to enter Mecca as a pilgrim

Biography

He was intrepid Italian traveler and adventurer whose account of his Middle Eastern and Asiatic wanderings was widely circulated throughout Europe and earned him high fame in his own lifetime. He made significant discoveries (especially in Arabia) and made many valuable observations of the peoples he visited; his ready wit enabled him to handle difficult situations.

He sailed from Venice near the end of 1502, visited Alexandria and Cairo, proceeded up the Syrian coast, and went inland to Damascus. Then, either adopting Islam or pretending to, he became the first Christian known to have made the holy pilgrimage to Mecca, a journey of gravest danger for a non-Muslim. He completed the trip between April and June 1503 and remained in Mecca about three weeks. In his writings he provides an accurate description of both the town and the religious rituals practiced there. Deserting his Syrian caravan, he then joined a group of Indian pilgrims on their way to India. He was, however, arrested as a Christian spy at Aden and imprisoned for two months. Sent to the palace of the sultan, he gained the intercession of one of the sultan’s wives. By this means, and by feigning madness, he was set free. He then made a walking tour of about 600 miles (965 km) through the mountainous southwestern corner of the Arabian peninsula, visiting Sanaa, Yemen.

He next sailed for northwestern India by way of Somaliland but then returned to Arabia. Touching at Ẓupār and Muscat, he went on to Hormuz in the Persian Gulf and spent much of 1504 in southern Persia. At Shīrāz, Persia, he entered into partnership with a merchant whom he knew from his Mecca pilgrimage and who accompanied him on the rest of his Asian travels. Following an unsuccessful attempt to reach Samarkand, the two men returned to Hormuz and embarked for India. Sailing the length of the western coast, they touched at Cambay and at Goa, from where Varthema visited the inland capital of Bijāpur; at Cannanore he detoured to visit Vijayanagar, a great city enjoying its final days of splendour; at Calicut (now Kozhikode) Varthema observed Hindu customs as well as trade and city government. He visited Ceylon and southeastern India and then made his way to the magnificent Myanmar (Burmese) capital at Pegu. From Malacca, on the southern Malay peninsula, he returned to India in the summer of 1505 and, upon reaching Calicut, posed as a Muslim holy man. Eager to return to Europe, Varthema joined the Portuguese garrison at Cannanore, fought for Portugal, and was knighted for his services. In 1507 he sailed for Europe by way of the Cape of Good Hope.

Varthema’s account, Itinerario de Ludouico de Varthema Bolognese… (1510), first appeared in English translation in Richard Eden’s History of Travayle (1576–77). The Hakluyt Society of London published an English translation, Travels of Ludovico di Varthema, in 1863.

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